The last few years have brought a boomlet in artisanal chocolate boutiques. Here, three new ones that are exceptional and idiosyncratic.

The chocolates at XOX Truffles in San Francisco look like chunks of gravel, but they taste remarkably smooth. They're made from Cocao Barry chocolate, in 27 sublime varieties - from creme de framboise to coffee crunch (754 Columbus Ave., 415-421-4814).

At Pastry Maxine in Scottsdale, Arizona, Richard Ruskell bakes some of the best brownies in America. But the main draw is his chocolates - available only from September through May, as they're too delicate for desert summers (7609 E. Pinnacle Peak Rd.;480-419-9199).

Manhattan's quirky Lunettes et Chocolat (owned by Maribel Lieberman, left) offers a dazzling array of handmade, cocoa-butter-painted chocolates, plus designer eyeglasses (25 Prince St.: 212-925-8800).

-Jessica Blatt
www.foodandwine.com